Homemade cooking away from home

Homemade cooking away from home

Owner Mary Burke shows off a few of her famous pies recently at Mary’s Cafe in West Rutland. Pictured are the mixed berry pie, banana cream pie and blueberry pie. Photo by Jon Olender/Rutland Herald.

Owner Mary Burke shows off a few of her famous pies recently at Mary’s Cafe in West Rutland. Pictured are the mixed berry pie, banana cream pie and blueberry pie. Photo by Jon Olender/Rutland Herald.

WEST RUTLAND — The small white building nestled on the corner of Elm and Main Streets in West Rutland could be mistaken for a residence if not for the “OPEN” flag flapping in the winter wind.

The white wooden sign out front reads “Mary’s Café” in green letters, directing locals and those just passing through up the ramp and into the front door.

Just inside, Valentine’s Day hearts and cupid cutouts adorn the walls as a masked waitress warmly greets customers from behind the pie bar. The tables, either set for two or four, sprawl across the two-section dining room.

The waitress is telling a regular customer about the pies on special as she refilled a coffee mug.

“We have berry filled and coconut cream pie today, get it while it’s still here,” she said.

Owner Mary Burke is behind the counter juggling the phone in one hand and a take-out Styrofoam container in the other. Her small, quick movements don’t cease until she is seated at the corner table with a heart-shaped vase filled with silk roses on it.

Burke says she wasn’t prepared to run a business when she took on the one-year lease – 24 years ago.

“Two months into the lease, the woman I was renting from put it up for sale. I was thinking ‘Oh boy, Mary doesn’t know anything about running a business,’” Burke said.

She went on to tell how she had gone to flight attendant school to be a stewardess and graduated before realizing there was no work for her in Vermont.

With those plans derailed, she talked about then working as a waitress and cook for 13 years before opening the café.

“I always kind of thought I would own that place (Luke’s Place) one day, but he had a big family,” Burke said.

The now locally famous restaurant serves as a breakfast, brunch or lunch destination with famous homemade pies for dessert, but Burke says her menu began small with limited breakfast options in order to use her ingredients in multiple ways.

“We’ve just grown since then. It’s just good home cooking, nothing fancy,” she said of her current menu.

Burke’s 90-year-old mother sat at a nearby table sipping coffee from a heart covered mug as she spoke.

The nursing aide seated next to Burke’s mother raved about the cup of vegetable soup in front of her.

“It’s to die for, you have to try it,” she gushed in between bites.

“My mother is the one who started the pies for me while I worked on the other stuff. Her sister helped her because it was only her, her sister, my sister Shauna, and me,” Burke recalled. “It really was a family affair because Shauna had daughters that were young enough to do the dishes. We had only family here up until about 10 years ago,” she said.

The café remains a family affair despite those who have retired or moved on to their own careers. Burke’s younger brother Peter works alongside his daughter Lindsey in the kitchen.

Burke says she comes from a family of nine children raised by a father who loved to cook and a mother who loved to bake.

“I came from a big family and I took care of them, mom worked, dad worked. There were nine of us and always a big meal to put on and dishes to do, and now I can get paid for it,” Burke chuckled. “I just love to serve people,” she added.

She only regrets that her father didn’t live to see her success.

“He passed away a year before and I know he would’ve been here every minute,” Burke said.

When asked about her favorite memory Burke couldn’t name just one. She said her loyal customers and the unexpected ones, like the Castleton University Football team, are what keep her in the business.

The best part of owning her own business, Burke said, is being able to do what she wants, from picking menu options to getting to know employees, and even the changing holiday décor.

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Mary’s Café is currently operating by reservation and take out only.


You can find this story published in the Rutland Herald.

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